After a busy Berlin summer, Amrei and I strapped our bags and headed south with the aim of discovering Slovenia’s repeatedly emphasized beauty as well as its vastly preserved nature.
While we were trying to plan as much remote riding off the beaten track (which can be difficult in central and southern Europe), while traversing the length of Slovenia down to the coast of Croatia, we discovered the lynx trail.
Our original plan was to start the journey from the south of Austria, traversing the Julian Alps and riding parts of the west loop following the Soča towards Rijeka, the question arose as to how we would continue inland after the West-Loop ended.
Before our planning got this far however it would soon be interfered by the immense floods that were destroying roads, paths and houses in Slovenia, Italy and Austria at the time. Passes became unpassable and streams became raging rivers, making wild camping particularly dangerous due to landslides.
At short notice, we decided to take the Slovenian regional train from Villach onwards. While the sluggish locomotive made for a slow journey, passing small villages and vast mountain ranges, we eventually got closer and closer to the southwest border of Croatia. While we popped our heads outside the windows, we enjoyed the first refreshing breaths of mountain air.
After a stopover in Rijeka and a final bulk grocery shop, we finally entered Slovenia via what is probably the remotest part of the Lynx Trail.
I wouldn't be writing this article if this part of our itinerary hadn't been spectacular and filled with memories that still make both of us smile warmly, even during the cold Berlin winter.
From the barren karst cliffs of the coastal region up to the stony forest roads, washed out by the vast amounts of rain, to the jungle-like endless and remote forests of Risnjak National Park. The beginning of the route was truly breathtaking. We had both forgotten that it is still possible in this part of Europe not to see a human being for almost two days, while instead seeing two small bears for the first time in our lives. It came clear to us that in this part of the world, nature is still kind of intact and preserved.
However, the route was very demanding for our gravel bikes. It was Amrei's first bikepacking adventure and she had hardly ever ridden off-road before. Our bodies kept signaling this to us.
Ps: Yes, we also recommend mountain bikes for the Lynx Trail!
Between running tears of pain and the adrenaline rush after our two bear sightings and the tears which cost us the pure beauty of this region, these days were exhausting but more than rewarding. Endless forest views, wild roaming horses, the thought of wild lynx around us and the vast flower meadows filled with bumble bees, made up for an unforgettable experience.
As we slowly left the lynx trail towards the the intermittent lake Cerknica, which was another incredible highlight of the tour, the riding became more relaxed with more open and smooth gravel roads. After a calming night in a birdwatching tower, overlooking the lake and its flourishing wildlife, we left the Lynx Trail behind. As we still had another two weeks of vacation left, we decided to continue our tour on less demanding paths and via the West-Loop, back towards Berlin.
